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00:00This lush cloud forest might seem like the tropics, but in fact it lies at the eastern
00:28tip of Russia.
00:31Suriname contains the richest temperate forest on earth and the most diverse ecosystem in
00:37Russia.
00:40A world full of challenging extremes, a unique refuge for the rare and the powerful.
00:58From Europe one must fly a third of the way around the globe to reach the Russian Far
01:03East.
01:06About 6,000 miles east of Moscow, across the grand mass of Siberia, the world's vastest
01:13stretch of land gives way to an even bigger realm, the Pacific Ocean.
01:21At its edge lies the claw of Ussuri land.
01:32In March, the far eastern taiga is still in the grip of winter.
01:38This Indian marten has made it through its first winter of life.
01:43Indian martens are typically found in tropical rainforests, but as usual, Ussuri land is
01:49an exception.
01:52Here, Indian martens have somehow learned to manage in the snow.
02:03This time of year, food supplies are still short.
02:06Indian martens spend most of their life in the treetops, alongside Ussuri land's 450
02:12species of birds.
02:28To the northwest of Ussuri land flows the Amur, the second largest river in Russia and
02:35among the ten largest in the world.
02:40The Amur drains water from an area about the size of Mexico.
02:55Ussuri land is the only Russian region within the temperate monsoon zone.
03:00In winter, it's chilled by the frigid Siberian landmass to the west, but in summer, the ice
03:07will give way to warm currents of the tropical Pacific.
03:13In this unique habitat, animals from the northern taiga mingle with species from the south.
03:23Among the latter is the legendary Amur tiger, the largest wild cat on earth.
03:30Ussuri land is home to the only sizable population of these big cats.
03:39At only one year of age, this young male already weighs well over 400 pounds.
03:49The young tiger is still with his mother and will stay until she conceives again.
03:58As his mother goes into heat, the young male gives her plenty of space.
04:03Tigresses broadcast their status through scent markings.
04:12Adult male Amur tigers cover vast territories, up to ten times bigger than the tropical tigers.
04:20They do not always show up on time.
04:24This time, the suitor is a few days early.
04:30The female is not quite ready yet for mating.
04:33Instead of responding to the male, she keeps her distance.
04:42The male can read the female's signals by flaming, using a sensitive organ on the roof
04:48of his mouth.
05:01The suitor will be sure to return a few days from now.
05:08Meanwhile, the young adolescent practices his own flaming for future situations.
05:19In early spring, the far eastern rivers are ice-free in just a few patches.
05:29Rare though they are, these spots are vital to some of Ussuri land's most elusive nocturnal
05:35creatures.
05:41In the dead of night, their haunting duet can be heard.
05:45This darkness belongs to the largest owl on earth, the Blaikistan's fish owl.
05:53The owls wait for hours in the cold night air.
05:58Although a rich variety of fish species are active in the rivers, they're mostly hidden
06:03under the ice.
06:08Among the rarest owls on the planet, Blaikistan's fish owls are specially adapted to live on
06:15cold-blooded prey.
06:29Only the enormous wealth of fish available in the Ussuri rivers permits this truly unusual
06:35adaption.
06:41At the coast, the rivers of Ussuri land empty into the Sea of Japan.
06:59In April, the tropical Tsushima current flows northward en route to Japan and begins to
07:05awaken Ussuri land from its winter slumber.
07:12Groups of harlequin ducks flock together and pair off for mating season.
07:22Nearby, as waters rise, lager seals get ready to leave their basking grounds.
07:31Having just shed their winter fur, the seals soak up as much sun as they can before entering
07:37the still frigid water.
07:41Thanks to the Tsushima, the tropical sea current, the water temperature is starting to rise
07:48at last.
07:52In the coming months, it will reach 15 degrees Celsius.
07:58Lager seals thrive on the plentiful fish and sea urchins in these waters.
08:17The harlequins make ready as the tide corals plankton and other nutrients shore them.
08:31The currents are rough, but the fearless harlequins take the plunge.
08:43While tides are still high, they race to gather their fill of sea snails, shrimps and
08:50small fish from the underwater meadows.
08:55Soon they will leave the sea to raise their young further inland.
09:02In the far eastern spring, the meeting of cold and warm waters forms fog banks over
09:12the sea as the heating effect of the Tsushima current increases.
09:23Mist reaches the mountain sides and is driven inland.
09:33Like a magic spell, the moisture spreads throughout the taiga, slowly rousing it from its winter
09:40torpor.
09:50Places that were harsh and forbidding during the long winter months become inviting once
09:56more.
10:00As the landscape awakens, so do many inhabitants who choose to spend the winter under wraps.
10:11For chipmunks, the first order of business is to find the food stores they prepare in
10:17the autumn.
10:23Ideally though, chipmunks prefer to raid their neighbours' larders and leave their own
10:28food stores intact for emergencies.
10:33When one chipmunk reveals where its rations are hidden, open season for food snatching
10:39begins.
10:46At this time of year, the pair of Blakeyston's fish owls are tending their chick.
10:52At two months of age, the youngster is already the size of a goose.
10:57The parents have strategically placed him in a poplar tree, perched about 35 feet above
11:03the river.
11:07Calls echoing through the woods signal it's time to wake up, dinner is on its way.
11:21Although the young owl now has a nest of its own, he's not yet ready to hunt his own prey.
11:31From the vantage point of the poplar tree, the young owl watches and learns as his parents
11:37fish nearby.
11:42In a few months, he will have to fend for himself, but for now, he's the spoiled only
11:49child.
11:57A growing fish owl will need another ten of these tonight.
12:02At dusk, the parents' work has just begun.
12:13For an owl, the moon illuminates the valley like daylight, and helps ensure the success
12:19of the hunt.
12:36The owl couple will fish tirelessly until dawn.
12:41In this time, they must nourish themselves and still bring at least ten feeds to their
12:46eagerly awaiting chick.
12:53Meanwhile, spring fully descends upon the waiting Ussuri landscape.
13:08The world's richest temperate forest comes alive in every imaginable shade of green.
13:18In the west of the Suri land, an enormous marshland of flooded rice fields extends over
13:24the Chinese border.
13:27At its heart is the Hangka, the biggest inland sea in the Far East.
13:35Hangka's unique features support the world's largest fields of lotus flowers, and in turn,
13:41countless other species.
13:59Lirans are supreme water hunters.
14:06With their sharp beaks, they harpoon their aquatic prey.
14:25But some targets seem too strange to tackle.
14:33The Chinese soft-shelled turtle can snorkel, using its long neck and tube-like nostrils
14:40to breathe air, while its body remains submerged and protected.
14:45The turtle's soft and flexible shell makes them more agile in the water, and also vulnerable.
14:53But the turtles have a lot to achieve in five short months of summer.
14:57They cannot afford to be timid.
15:01Optimal sunbathing territory is in high demand.
15:06Female Chinese soft-shelled turtles are far larger than males.
15:11When it comes to territory disputes, there's no contest.
15:21The turtle's strong jaws help them lacerate prey, but are also useful for managing the
15:28competition.
15:38Unlike their tropical relatives, these turtles have limited access to the sun.
15:44During the short, intense summer, they must soak up all the warmth they need for the entire
15:49year.
15:53When the ice eventually returns to the hanker, the turtles will disappear into hibernation
15:59beneath it, until next summer.
16:12The warmth of the Tsushima current spreads throughout the Usuri summer, and is reflected
16:18in the vibrancy of the tiger.
16:23Each summer, seeker deer gather and make their way to the sea together.
16:32The seeker finds safety in numbers.
16:34Easily startled, the herd makes slow progress.
16:39Their high-pitched whistles warn companions to be on the lookout.
16:53Bit by bit, the herd draws closer to the shoreline.
16:58The sound of the nearby surf draws them onwards.
17:06Once they reach the sea, the seeker have a singular purpose kelp.
17:11The foliage in these coastal forests is lacking in salt due to the constant rain and snow.
17:18The deer must quench their need for sodium here.
17:23The salty sea spray makes constant grooming a must.
17:35Driven by their salt cravings, the seekers expose themselves to danger on the unprotected
17:41beach.
17:42The Amur tiger knows their weakness well.
17:51This time, the deer's skittishness is justified.
17:59Though deer hunting is usually done at night, the tiger stores his prey and returns for
18:05more helpings later.
18:07It may take several sittings to finish off a large deer.
18:17It doesn't take long for the first onlookers to arrive.
18:37In the summer, the nocturnal tigers mainly hunt Himalayan black bears, badgers or raccoon
18:45dogs.
18:46But on the coastal peninsulas, seeker deer have few escape routes and are easy prey.
18:54Once the tiger has had his fill, he will usually leave the rest for later.
19:05But there is no shortage of opportunists on hand.
19:08They are tiny compared to the mighty tiger, but unlikely to give up.
19:24The king is faced with a rather irritating dilemma.
19:38There is little left, and this time it's easier to let the crows have their way.
19:45Once the buffet is open, tensions begin to rise.
19:56Jungle crows are among the cleverest of the corvid birds.
20:04Though small, they work in groups to drive off even large and dangerous competitors like
20:11the sea eagle.
20:14With their persistence, the eagle will eventually move off in search of more peaceful feeding
20:20ground.
20:27Like swarming crows, starting in May, the monsoon clouds begin to gather.
20:49The Ussuri tiger is the only rainforest in Russia.
20:53In summer, it takes full advantage of the warmth and moisture while it lasts.
21:03Ceaseless rain is no bother to the Himalayan black bear.
21:11Unlike their grizzly cousins, these bears spend most of the year in the treetops of
21:16the tiger, not on the ground.
21:21Training skills are essential for avoiding the Amur tiger, but these bears have virtually
21:27no other foes to fear.
21:31The bears eat cambium, a layer beneath the bark, which helps cleanse their digestive
21:37system before another round of leaves, berries and insects.
21:42When a respite from the rain finally comes, the young owl is a bit the worse for wear.
21:55He's been out in the elements all night.
22:01The nest is flooded and the river is on the rise.
22:07It's time to find somewhere higher and drier.
22:13If he tries to move, he may fall into the rough current where he wouldn't stand a chance.
22:31Unfortunately, the venture has only brought him closer to the rapids.
22:38The rains turn small streams into raging rivers.
22:45Flooding the landscape, they create a mirror universe beneath the surface.
22:52Out swim, where only minutes ago there was not a drop of water.
23:20The nearby Hanka Lake is shielded from the heavy rains, but floodwaters flow in and fill
23:27the basin.
23:28The monsoon winds whip the treeless valley into a frenzy.
23:38The shallow Hanka Lake becomes a treacherous sea.
23:41The choppy waves build enormous power and wash away entire banks.
23:48Strong gusts of wind mean even experienced flyers are reluctant to take off.
24:02Much like a mangrove swamp, lagoons form along the shore.
24:10As soon as the storm has subsided, the soft-shelled turtles are drawn to the new lagoons like
24:16moths to the flame.
24:18They know that the floods bring shoals of prey.
24:24But competition has already arrived.
24:29Powerful predators, snakeheads, prefer to feed on fish, but are known to eat even small
24:35mammals.
24:44Caught between the two hunters, the small fish have no way out.
24:59In summer, the Usuri turtles must gorge themselves to the maximum.
25:07By now, they only have one more month to feed and build the energy stores to last them
25:14all winter.
25:18Like few fish on earth, snakeheads breathe air from the surface.
25:24The snakehead's daring leap helps it gauge the distance back to the safety of the main
25:31lake.
25:32The snakehead can propel itself for several yards with its writhing technique.
25:40The turtles' movements, too, are dictated by the waters.
25:44When one lagoon begins to dry out, they're off to raid another.
26:02In August, the inflow of the Tsushima current reaches its annual high point.
26:10The sea temperature is now at its peak of about 20 degrees Celsius.
26:18Islands such as the Rimsky-Korsakov archipelago still carry signs of terrestrial life.
26:27After 6,000 rugged miles, here, the Russian expanse comes to an end.
26:38The blooming tiger grows sparse and gives way to a seascape just as exotic.
26:55Among the sun-nourished stalks, curious creatures abound.
27:16Japanese fugus, or blowfish, are carried to the Russian coast on the Tsushima current.
27:24These are small in size, but have excellent protection.
27:29Their organs contain one of the most powerful toxins in nature.
27:38Nearby, a Pacific starfish gropes for food.
27:49Within minutes, a feeding frenzy ensues.
27:53The shellfish has no chance.
27:56Potent digestive juices liquefy its insides before they're sucked out.
28:02Minutes later, the shell is all that remains.
28:14These mussel beds form the protective reefs of the Sea of Japan.
28:24Sea cucumbers vacuum its surface for food.
28:36While some creatures inhabit these seas year-round, others, like the fringe blenny, are summer
28:43visitors, swept in from Japan.
28:50Before winter hits, migrants like the blennies will finish spawning and return to the warmer
28:56waters southeast of here.
29:13Although the night-time seas are calm, the coastal forest is churning with life.
29:22The young fish owl has managed to find a dry perch.
29:26When waters are high and fish hide deep underwater, frogs are an important part of the owl's
29:35diet.
29:38Frogs have more than just the owls to fear.
29:43Raccoon dogs have adapted perfectly to the Pacific rainforests and have mastered the
29:48art of frog hunting.
29:53The fish owls use their ultra-sharp eyesight to lock in on prey.
30:00The raccoon dog uses its uncannily keen sense of smell to root out even the smallest tadpoles.
30:08With such fine-tuned senses, neither opaque water nor darkness poses a challenge.
30:21At the height of the warm, damp summer, all life in the tiger absorbs as much nourishment
30:27as possible, while it still can.
30:35The young owl is now nearly the size of its parents.
30:39Soon the time will come when he must learn to hunt his own meals.
30:47Making ready, he waits for the waters to subside and become calmer fishing grounds.
30:53Along with hunting skills, his budding adult feathers will be vital once summer is gone.
31:13The rains have created a maze of islands in the floodplain forest.
31:20A female Himalayan black bear takes full advantage of the summer greenery on hand.
31:31She too is raising young.
31:34At only a few weeks old, her cubs are already skilful climbers.
31:45In the slender topmost branches, the cubs are safest from tiger attacks.
31:54With their unique balance and grip, the hefty bears live as naturally in the forest canopy
32:00as any other tree dweller.
32:11After the monsoon has blown through, a thick blanket of morning fog looms over Hanker Lake.
32:21In the summer months, raccoon dogs make a pilgrimage to the flood lagoons in search of food.
32:44A fine aroma hangs over the sands and the raccoon dog's nose is the first to track it.
32:52Though turtle eggs are usually odourless to protect from predators, some nests are flooded
32:59and spoiled before they have the chance to hatch.
33:06The raccoon dog, lucky enough to sniff it out, will find a tasty buried treasure.
33:20The turtle nests further from the water's edge are safe, incubated for three months
33:25in the summer sun.
33:28In September, the moment arrives for the Chinese soft-shelled turtles, the first minutes out
33:35in the world are the most perilous.
33:41In a blind sprint, the hatchlings make for the relative safety of the water.
33:49The young are fast and alert, but at less than two centimetres in width, they're vulnerable
33:54to nearly any predator, bird, frogs or even adult turtles.
34:01Fewer than 20% will survive these first trials.
34:05Those who do will not dally in the shallows for long.
34:14Sometimes the tide can lend a helping hand.
34:26By hook or by crook, the hatchlings navigate their way alone to the floating meadows.
34:33The vegetation offers protection from predators both above and below.
34:39Here, the tiny turtles can relax for the first time, warm themselves in the sun and eat their
34:46fill of the plentiful algae.
34:52Excellent eyesight and a good sense of smell helps them find dead fish or other leftover
34:58food.
35:03But the snakehead is after live prey.
35:08The small turtle is intent on its unwieldy scrap.
35:29A lucky break this time.
35:37In late September, summer is quickly drawing to a close.
35:43As though to bid it farewell, mayflies begin to rise from the waters synchrone.
35:50Hundreds of thousands fill the air and become millions, minutes later, billions.
36:08The flies dance weightlessly like the snow that will soon return to the tiger.
36:22Within 30 minutes, the twilight comes and the flies relent along with the summer warmth.
36:32Each evening, for a week, a new throng will perform.
36:45Then autumn descends upon Usuriland.
36:51As the darkening winters approach, a blaze of color erupts from the mountains downward.
37:16To its inhabitants, the tiger issues a bright signal that it is time to store up for the
37:23long cold season.
37:35Musk deer, the shyest in the tiger, are revealed briefly by the thinning leaves.
37:44Tiger renders large antlers impractical, so the male's oversized canines serve to intimidate rivals.
37:58By now, the young Himalayan black bears have been looking after themselves for some time.
38:07Like the Usuri badger, they will soon retire for the winter.
38:13Having stuffed themselves in late summer, the young bears now weigh three times what they did before.
38:24All manner of play fighting help them to build their strength.
38:28In another year's time, the siblings will separate and begin their lives as solitary adults.
38:43For all the bears' roughhousing, the badger has nothing to fear from them.
38:56Soft, dead leaves make cozy, cushioned nests for autumn.
39:21The leaf nests are fine for now, but at the first sign of snow, the bears will retire to their tree holes for warmth and safety.
39:36Autumn in the Far East is brief, and its effects are felt quickly.
39:48The lotus capsules are empty, the seeds long since dispersed in the water.
40:01A sparkle of hoarfrost spreads across the marshy Hangka lakeside, but the reeds still hold life in them.
40:10Tiny hoid's parrotbills bite into the stalks and seek out the insects hibernating inside.
40:19All winter, the stalks are their exclusive food stores, and only this species is equipped to open them.
40:37The vast inland Hangka lake will be covered with ice in two weeks' time, locked for seven months in the grip of winter.
40:54In nights just before winter's final descent, an uncommon sight startles a flying squirrel.
41:05An Amur leopard, the rarest big cat on earth.
41:17The male leopard has killed a red deer and dragged the carcass under a tree trunk for safekeeping.
41:27The squirrel would do best to make himself scarce, but the Amur leopard is sated for tonight.
41:39For the flying squirrels, vertical trunks are a playground and racetrack.
41:53The northernmost leopard in the world, the Amur leopard, is ready for winter.
41:59A three-inch thick coat defends it from the impending chill.
42:07By the end of October, winter can no longer be kept at bay.
42:19Rapidly falling temperatures freeze the tiger both literally and figuratively, immobilizing it in time.
42:30The remnants of the fleeting Ussuri summer are preserved in an eerie portrait.
42:45Winter reaches the coast last of all.
42:51Just as the sea resists and delays the onset of spring, it thwarts the icy winter air for a time.
43:01But by November, the Amur leopard will be gone.
43:10But by November, the tropical Tsushima is pushed aside by the Arctic currents.
43:18Now the first snow swirls into the Pacific surf.
43:26Those who make their lives in Ussuri land know the polar opposites of life, both ease and hardship.
43:37And perhaps for this very reason, they remain as they have been for millennia.
43:43Like the winter tiger, they're both alive and frozen in time.
44:07The Amur leopard will be gone.
44:13But by November, the tropical Tsushima is pushed aside by the Arctic currents.
44:21And perhaps for this very reason, they remain as they have been for millennia.
44:36Thank you for watching!