The Runway Re-See: Thom Browne Offers an Inside-Look at His Fall 2024 Couture Collection

Vogue

The Runway Re-See: Thom Browne Offers an Inside-Look at His Fall 2024 Couture Collection Director, 2nd Unit: Nikki Petersen Director Of Photography: Hugo Jowizki Editors: Jeremy Smolik, Evan Allan Producer: Amaury Delcambre Production Coordinator, On Set: Meryl Marciano Assistant Camera: Antoine Balland Audio: Charles Grégoire Production Coordinator, France: Meryl Marciano Production Assistants: Pauline Sarlande, Alban Giraudon Production Coordinators: Ava Kashar, Tanía Jones Production Manager: Natasha Soto-Albors Line Producer: Romeeka Powell Senior Director, Production Management: Jessica Schier Post Production Coordinators: Ian Bryant, Scout Alter VFX Artist: Samuel Fuller Art &amp; Graphics Lead: Léa Kicher Supervising Editor: Erica DeLeo Post Production Supervisor: Alexa Deutsch Associate Director, Post Production: Nicholas Ascanio Director, Content Production: Rahel Gebreyes Senior Director, Programming: Linda Gittleson VP, Digital Video English: Thespena Guatieri Filmed at Auburn Paris, Thom Browne

Transcript

00:00Hello there, my name is Jose Criales-Unsueta and I'm a fashion writer at Vogue Runway.

00:07I'm here this week in Paris to go to the Haute Couture Collections and today I'm

00:10going to take you with me to an exclusive Vogue preview of Tom Brown's second couture

00:13collection in Paris.

00:17We've asked Tom why is it that he likes to create haute couture and why it has become

00:21important for an American designer to show a couture collection in Paris.

00:32We're here at Tom Brown, this is his Paris office, so let's see what he has in store

00:35for us this season.

00:36Hello.

00:37Hi Tom.

00:38How are you?

00:39Good to see you.

00:40Good to see you.

00:41Thank you for having us.

00:42Thanks for coming.

00:43Everything is coming together.

00:44Hello.

00:45I wanted this show to be like a good play on the beauty of just making really well-made

01:05clothes.

01:06I remember the first time we spoke, like ahead of your first show, you told me how

01:10excited you were about bringing this idea of American craftsmanship and couture into

01:13Paris, but also merging those worlds.

01:15What made you come back to couture this year?

01:17The initial concept was really to work with the craftsmanship of tailoring and work with

01:23the actual muslins as the final garments.

01:25And I thought, compared to the last couture show, last July, where everything was beautifully

01:30finished and embroidered, I wanted to do the polar opposite and really use the muslins

01:34and the craft of making clothes as the couture element.

01:39And this is where it all starts.

01:41Everything that you see in any one of our shows starts with a muslin, and then it goes

01:45into what the fabrication will be or what the embroidery will be.

01:48But there's so much that goes into each piece, and you'll see the idea of muslin being carried

01:53through throughout the collection.

01:55And then there is the overall theme of we're in Paris and the Olympics coming.

02:00Here are the gold, silver, and bronze medals at the end of the show.

02:05It's beading, it's bullion, so it's an entirely metal jacket.

02:09So there is like fashion's ultimate sport.

02:11It is.

02:12It is.

02:17So I guess we can focus on this one since we're going to look at this book.

02:21Yeah.

02:22It's one of the more finished pieces, and it really just encapsulates the real essence

02:27of the entire show.

02:28There's strength in the tailoring you'll see in the shoulder and the sleeve, but then also

02:31to the idea of it being partially finished.

02:35It's basically the work-in-progress version of what the finished piece would be.

02:39I think it's really one of those timeless, beautiful pieces with the jacket and the skirt.

02:45The artwork is a conceptualized Grecian Olympian figure mixed with filigree and laurel leaves.

02:52It took close to 11,000 hours and 42 craftsmen sitting around a table, and the dimension

02:59of the embroidery is something I think is really special too.

03:06And of course, Dore looks so good in it.

03:10Yeah, I mean, this is...

03:13It's so good looking.

03:15It's just remarkable.

03:16And kind of like what I was saying, the shape is so simple, but I always just reference

03:21the tailoring of the shoulder and the sleeve is so sharp, and then Hector with his gold

03:26medal.

03:27With his little gold medal.

03:28So cute.

03:29You know, you could finish the whole thing, but it's kind of perfect unfinished.

03:36You know, then next to you too, it's almost like the idea of half of it being finished

03:50and the other half just in the Muslim version of what the embroidery would be.

03:55So this really encapsulates the idea of the show too.

03:58But even seeing the basting stitches here, it's all hand done.

04:02This is really wild.

04:03I mean, even down to the nipples or like that, just that attention to detail.

04:06You just touched it.

04:07I know.

04:08Sorry.

04:13I always say the quality of what I do, I think is the most fashionable thing.

04:17I'd like to showcase, especially being an American designer, that this quality is done

04:22in New York.

04:23And it's beautiful to be here in something that is so cultural here in Paris, and to

04:27represent American fashion that way.

04:30I'd love the experience to be all immersive, and I'd like everybody to feel like they're

04:34part of the experience.

04:36So everyone coming to the shows will get this, and this is the invitation.

04:40Oh my God, I love this.

04:42Oh, this is sick.

04:43It actually looks really good.

04:44It does.

04:45I can't wait to see the whole room with everybody in there.

04:48Yeah, the whole room is going to be crazy, especially with your shows.

04:51People are always looking for the way in, in a way, to just sort of participate in the

04:56world you've built.

04:57Thank you so much for your time.

05:19I've just left the Thom Browne show, as you can see behind me, there's a lot of people

05:22I've just left the Thom Browne show.

05:27As you can tell, I am wearing my show invite.

05:29I had a great time, as always with Thom.

05:32It was quite a spectacle.

05:33It was lovely to see some New York-made American haute couture in Paris.

05:38I am Jose Quirero Zunsueta, I am signing off for Vogue, and I'll see you next time.

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