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00:00This issue, it's a historic moment in the life of Vogue
00:07Oh yeah
00:08What we're doing has never been done before
00:11We're making magic here
00:13This is the magazine everyone's gonna pay attention to
00:16I feel more than lucky, I feel blessed
00:18I can shed a tear
00:19It just feels revolutionary, honestly
00:30My name is Monica Miller and I'm the guest curator of Superfine, Tailoring Black Style
00:46And a professor of Africana Studies at Barnard College, Columbia University
00:50Black style is really related to thinking about how fashion and power connect
00:57The way that people are styled, are fashioned, are fashioned themselves
01:03In response to the degree of agency that they feel
01:06Silhouettes change, use of pattern, color, all of those things change
01:10In relationship to time, in relationship to history
01:13So fashion, power, aesthetics, politics
01:16Those are all wrapped up in one way that we can see the world
01:20I chose to focus on dandyism
01:23What is black dandyism?
01:25Um, gosh
01:28It's a little hard to describe
01:30Dandy, I'm feeling quite dandy
01:32I think dandyism is about individuality
01:35Excellence
01:35Freedom
01:36Whipped
01:37Elegance
01:38It is tailoring
01:39It's a frequency
01:40Dandyism to me is really about expression, lack expression
01:44Dandyism means confidence to me
01:46Somebody that celebrates living in a one-of-a-kind body
01:50And tailors everything to that body
01:52I think that the dandy is essentially an honor case
01:56Dandyism, can't say
01:58I didn't even hear the word until the Met Gala
02:00I just thought it was black excellence
02:02I was like, oh the theme of this year is ASAP Rocky, okay I get it
02:05The kind of dictionary definition of dandyism is somebody who studies above all else to dress elegantly and fashionably
02:14When the dandy is black, we get to see the dandy as a figure that really encapsulates a kind of matrix of identity
02:22Race, gender, class, sexuality, and sometimes nation
02:26I'm really interested in thinking about clothing, dress, and fashion as a tool, as a critique, and also as a creative mode of thinking about liberation
02:39I'm from the poorest neighborhood in Harlem
02:42Goodwill's was our Macy's
02:44But when I got dressed, even in clothes that wasn't mine, nobody knew how poor my family was
02:49And that for me was the birth of dandyism because I saw the power of transformation that could take place with your clothes
02:57Instantly, you can become somebody else
03:00There's nothing more dandy than an African man, like dressed to the nines
03:09Really the first person I thought of was my dad, who is not
03:12Well, you know, to me, he is a historical icon
03:16When I think about dandyism, I think about my family
03:20Who comes to mind are actually my mother and father
03:23I think of black folks going to church
03:25I think a lot about the jazz musicians
03:27Duke Ellington, Miles Davis, Nat King Cole
03:31Andre 3000 for sure embodied it
03:33Jack Johnson
03:33The honorary chairman himself, LeBron James
03:36Tyler the Creator is a vision of a modern dandy
03:39Andre Leon Talley
03:40Prince was a dandy
03:41Dapper Dan
03:42That's right
03:43There's a very famous pimp named Magic Don Juan
03:48We grew up seeing him everywhere
03:50Seeing him pull up in his green Cadillac
03:52And I think that for me is the ultimate expression of dandyism
03:56Even though it's negative, it had such a huge impact on the way we presented ourselves growing up in that city
04:02I look at pretty much every young kid in Africa that mixes collars and tailoring and tracksuits
04:09It takes a lot of confidence to want to stick out
04:12To want to go against the grain and against trends and the status quo
04:17You kind of tell your story through your clothes
04:19And it was important for me to bring that into this project
04:30Today was the first day of shooting for this amazing story that is connected to the theme of the Met Gala
04:39If we're being completely honest, you just don't know what you're going to get on the day
04:43And I do remember feeling like, wow, this is very special
04:46The energy on set today was just so amazing and so joyful
04:51I feel like everybody was excited to be here
04:53I was with John Baptiste and Jeremy Pope
04:57But it was magic
04:58I mean, John was like singing
04:59Both of them were like singing
05:01So we all got a free little serenade, which was pretty magical
05:05Law is very specific
05:09When he needs you to express anything with your body
05:12Or you're like posing or anything
05:13He'll get on set and just do it
05:15He'll let you know
05:16Tyler really knows what he wants
05:20So once he gets the frame right
05:21And everybody where they need to be
05:23He's just shooting
05:23And it's just like, you got to be ready
05:25Nice, that's great
05:26That was great, Jules
05:27The actual photography aspect of it was just to channel this amazing portfolio of very talented people in today's landscape
05:34And the way we could unify all that was to make a very simplistic set, actually
05:40Only containing a few elements
05:41Certain colors in a color palette that was primarily pastel
05:45And then elements or hints of wood
05:47That's great, Hunter
05:49Other black photographers, James Van Der Zee, Gordon Parks, Roy DeCarava
05:53Those were sort of the references
05:55When the Met announced the theme, like I already had so many references, right
06:05I think I am kind of a purveyor of my culture and my history
06:09I've already built out this incredible database of images and memories
06:16All the way from slavery to modern day
06:19I have been studying and waiting for this moment, you know, almost all my life
06:24The moment that you saw and that we had as like Tiana, myself
06:34It felt very intimate and like sister-like
06:38Yeah, even the vibe today on set is just so cool
06:45It's so, so exciting and beautiful
06:47It's a beautiful thing getting to celebrate each other and learn about each other
06:51You don't want to leave
06:52You don't want to leave because it just feels full of love
06:56And that type of feeling you don't want to let go of, you know
06:59As much as today is so beautiful
07:03It's unfortunately still an anomaly to walk into a space and to see so many of us
07:08I think many of us here are used to being one of the only brown faces on a set
07:13And being the representation and being the diversity
07:16I mean, even this is only a sliver of just how beautiful and the depth and breadth of what it is to be black and celebrate our blackness
07:22Fine line tailoring and like dandyism in general what it represents is us reclaiming our individuality and our pride
07:31Creating a safe space for black people to really just express themselves in a way that went above and beyond societal limits
07:43One of the ways that we can think about dandyism is through tailoring
07:47We can see it as a kind of mode of control, what I think african-americans might call, you know, coming correct
07:53Good tailoring defines a person
07:55Right now I'm wearing Fear of God and Jerry Lorenzo
07:59It's pretty cool and it makes me feel powerful
08:02Right now I'm wearing a three-piece double-breasted suit designed by yours truly
08:08You got to get a good look, can I stand up for a minute?
08:10You getting it? Look at these shoes, man
08:12Just zoom in on those, fuck the outfit
08:14There's something about a tailored suit
08:17This badass boss lady feeling that I get when I wear suits
08:21This suit makes me feel confident, important, singular
08:26Because it has indeed been tailored within an inch of my life to my exact body
08:31No one else can wear this suit now
08:34I don't have like the kind of body that you can just buy something off the shelf
08:38When you get a tailored suit or a tailored shirt, it fits better, you look better
08:42My body does not fit the status quo proportions of an average person
08:48Just so many different people are hands-on to, you know, making us look good, you know, making the clothes fit well
08:55Historically, made to wear clothing was not as available for black people
09:00So the tailor became a very, very important person in a community
09:04People would go to tailors to have their clothes made or to have clothing modified
09:08The tailor in black communities was somebody who would know about people's lives
09:14Because of the ways in which they would visit the tailor for these special occasions
09:18I really like tailoring because there's a real intention that goes into crafting a silhouette in relation to the body
09:25So I feel like it's a very close relationship that you can have with someone as a designer
09:29There's a kind of responsibility within that as well
09:31When I think of dandyism in particular, it's taking on that suit and giving us our own aesthetic
09:36And from that, so much has blossomed
09:42One of the important stories is about a fight for an increasing ability to self-represent
09:49The Harlem Renaissance, for example, is one of these moments when black people really had the ability
09:53To change their image in the eyes of others
09:55The tailor did that on a small scale
09:57You see a lot of creativity in the history of black style because it's our armor
10:03You know, it's a tool in our toolbox to get through life
10:07To make it easier to get into certain rooms
10:10Get into certain rooms
10:19In 2023, when we had our first show with Vuittong
10:23Anna saw the show and afterwards immediately said
10:26I want you to chair for the Met Gala in 2025
10:30But we have to keep it secret
10:32How does it feel to be one of the covers?
10:34I think it's an honor
10:36Henry's a fantastic artist, crazy life story
10:41And he's just writing new chapters as we speak
10:44He's one of the most coveted artists in the space
10:48And is just alive, well, kicking it and crushing it
10:51Van Gogh never got to see the world revere him
10:55Henry's alive to experience people appreciating his work
11:01I often used to ask myself why I am where I am
11:04Why the universe has placed me where it's placed me
11:07But then I realized, like, the reason why the universe has allowed me through these doors
11:11Is because I'm supposed to hold them open for others
11:14We climbed the ladder together
11:16That is black history
11:30Lovely?
11:31Yes
11:32Love it
11:33All four co-chairs are going to have their covers, which is kind of awesome
11:37It's a historic moment and it's an epic moment
11:39In my life and the life of Vogue
11:44We're literally going deep into history
11:47Something that has always seemed to be challenged right now
11:50I think Ike's brilliant, he's such a brilliant thinker
11:53He's distilling culture across the diasporas in such an extraordinary way
11:57I learned about Ike probably 25 years ago
12:02And was just astounded
12:04Right there in front of me
12:06Somebody was living and working as a dandy
12:12The portrait session went well
12:16When I began, I was trying to direct him
12:20At some point, he paused
12:23He said, you know, I'm not a fashion model
12:25I am an actor
12:26Let me fill this story
12:28And I'll give you whatever you want
12:31It's me and the camera and Ike
12:34And we're having this moment together
12:36All the people around me that have come before me
12:39Are with me in the room
12:40I like to make sure that it's never just about me
12:43But it is about where I come from
12:45It's about my ancestors, it's about my family
12:47So I want to bring them into the room
13:01We're here in London
13:02We've shot the cover of Vogue today
13:04Which is very surreal for me
13:08It really hits home when I think about my heritage
13:12I think about my father, my grandfather
13:14My ancestors who came before
13:18Black Mirror experience from back then
13:20Is very similar to today
13:21In how they would present themselves through fashion
13:25How they would turn up
13:27We really sort of imagined this idea
13:29Of a group of friends going to a studio
13:31To get their portraits taken
13:33And they're very proud
13:34I use canes in this shoot
13:36And I think there's a sense of pride
13:37When the men in the streets in like Congo
13:39In Sierra Leone
13:41In Gambia
13:42In Nigeria
13:43They would come out in great tailoring
13:45And have their photos taken
13:46And I think there's a sense of pride
13:47When you hold something
13:48And going somewhere
13:49There's a sense of bringing everything you have
13:51To the picture
13:52I have done a lot of photo shoots through my career
13:55A lot of them
13:56I would be the only person of color on the shoot
13:58More often than not
13:59Change was really really hard to push for
14:02And it's been something I've been really pushing for a long time
14:04And so to slowly start to see that change
14:07And seeing people come together from different backgrounds
14:09It's uplifting for me
14:10And it feels like we're moving in the right direction
14:12When we all come together
14:16I think what we're all trying to get to
14:18Telling history
14:19Telling the truth about who we are in the world
14:21Especially as black people
14:22You know, whether we want to tell black history or not
14:24I think we have a great access point
14:27When it comes to style
14:28Because you can't deny it
14:36I think it's important to pay attention
14:39And homage to black style
14:41Because it's been a kind of force
14:42It has made us ask questions about
14:44Who is fashion for?
14:46Dapper Jan changed the way that we think about fashion
14:49And particularly in relationship of black people to luxury brands
14:53And luxury in general
14:55I didn't grow up thinking I was going to be a dandy
14:58Or wanted to be a dandy
14:59It was all a matter of me surviving psychologically
15:05What was happening to me at the time, right?
15:08His own personal story is just about ingenuity
15:11Everything that he was able to do in the 70s and 80s
15:14It changed fashion
15:16Ninety percent of the men in my neighborhood was hustlers
15:20I'm first generation in the migration that came from the south
15:23So they came with top-notch skills
15:25But street skills
15:26I felt like it was a Robin Hood thing
15:29You know?
15:30Because I was Robin and bringing it to the hood
15:32When I started studying all about fashion
15:35There's no way to separate fashion from music
15:38So I said, okay
15:39I'm going to do something that's going to transform the community
15:42So here comes hip-hop
15:44They had no fashion identity
15:46But they felt this connection to guys like me who came up hard
15:51People think that my mission is to dress young bodies
15:56But that's not my mission
15:57My mission is to dress young minds
15:59Fashion is just a platform for me to reach young people in a different way
16:03That's why I stayed in Harlem
16:04I would never leave in Harlem
16:05I wanted to make sure I was still there
16:07And telling these stories
16:09See where we at?
16:11We in Harlem
16:28We are at Langston Hughes' prior residence
16:31Langston Hughes is the first rapper ever
16:34From a rapper, take it from me
16:36All right, 128 and set
16:38What up, baby?
16:39What up, what up?
16:40Harlem world
16:42On one of the cover
16:44I'm on the cover actually
16:46Yeah, the best one
16:48Is this thing on?
16:49Guess what I just did?
16:50I just made a dream come true
16:52I shot all my trunks on a corner
16:54A random corner in Harlem right now
16:56Tyler, you killing this, bro
16:58Check me out
17:00I came up with the idea to feature my grandma
17:02Came up with the idea to shoot Langston Hughes' house
17:05Came up with the idea to do Dalmatians
17:07Cause it's 101 years of the Harlem Renaissance
17:10So, you know, it was a real collective effort
17:13And Tyler and Law was very receptive to my ideas
17:17And we built on top of it and made a masterpiece today
17:20I'm not trying to be cocky
17:26I don't got nothing to talk about
17:27We gonna let the art speak for itself
17:29I feel more than lucky, I feel blessed
17:33I could shed a tear
17:34I'm feeling all of the manifestations
17:38From the Harlem Renaissance
17:40It's a pleasure to be here, my dear
17:47In terms of where fashion goes from here
17:49I'm hoping that it becomes more and more inclusive
17:53How would the final result look like?
17:56They will be sublimely beautiful
17:59With such chromatic intensity
18:01And a touch sexy
18:03To be a part of this is just
18:06I'm very proud of it, honestly
18:08This moment, especially what's going on in the world
18:11And in our country
18:12This moment seems so important
18:14This is bigger than us as individuals
18:16This is bigger than us as actors or actresses or models
18:21It's the combination of all of us coming together
18:25To create something beautiful
18:27For present and for future
18:31I'm not gonna cry, but I wanna cry so bad
18:34I think I probably will cry when it's out
18:36And everybody gets to see it
18:39I think this issue is so important on so many levels
18:42Because we are taking the opportunity and moment
18:44To highlight blackness
18:46To embrace it
18:47To embrace it
18:48Not in a way that feels like a trope
18:50Or in a performance
18:51I hope that people receive it with love
18:53And an opportunity to uplift a community
18:55That is a beautiful thing
18:56Because I'm still standing
18:57I'm still here
18:58I'm still black
18:59And I still feel very beautiful
19:03I do think that the main message
19:06That we're trying to get across
19:08Is really fashion as empowerment
19:10Fashion as a way
19:12To say something about yourself
19:14Right?
19:15Or your community
19:16That might be new
19:17Or that might be outside
19:19Of stereotype
19:20Of boundaries
19:21You are your lineage
19:22You are your history
19:23That's also why
19:24I think this is so beautiful to me
19:26Even for people who might not be black
19:28Like this opportunity
19:29To get to learn this history
19:30Connect to each other
19:31To each other's humanity
19:33To each other's art
19:34That's like such a gift
19:36Our art is precious
19:38Our love for everything
19:39We've contributed to culture
19:40Stands the test of time
19:42The picture goes such a long way
19:44It's going to inspire kids globally
19:47And I think that's the whole point
19:49We're here
19:50To inspire people
19:51It's a real moment to highlight
19:53Our own underrepresented voices
19:55And it's something I'm so honored
19:57And so proud to be a part of
19:58The idea of like honoring
20:00The black dandy matters
20:02To look at the history
20:03And the impact that we've had
20:05On culture
20:06On design
20:07And art
20:08And music
20:09And I'm standing with these
20:10Incredible brothers
20:11Who I admire so dearly
20:12It's just a beautiful, beautiful moment
20:14And I'm very proud to be a part of it
20:16I think a dandy is as a dandy does
20:18Anytime human beings are doing their thing
20:21Unapologetically
20:22It's inspiring and life-changing
20:24For somebody out there
20:26Yes, indeed
20:33things are still the same
20:34From Starting
20:38The�
20:39People
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