Una ola de treinta metros (Serie de TV)
https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film377600.html
https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film377600.html
Categoría
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CortometrajesTranscripción
00:00Todos quieren surfar la más grande wave, pero quizás no es el momento de concentrarse en Nazaré.
00:07La wave puede estar en cualquier lugar.
00:16Tener a surfar a estos otros lugares, eso es el sueño.
00:20Estamos en Morocco.
00:22Guayamaya Bay es uno de los más iconos, grandes lugares.
00:26Cortés Bank es 100 miles de suerte, probablemente el más peligroso surf spot en el mundo.
00:31Es una mierda, porque a lot of the unknown bombé suave.
00:35It created this rush that I've been craving.
00:41He's still hungry.
00:45That one bad heavy wipeout, he might not come back from that.
00:49I rode big waves for most of my life, but I've never really thought of the concussions.
00:54Probably at least a hundred, if not more.
00:57How many wake up calls before you don't get a wake up call anymore?
01:02It sucks you in.
01:03Get that hype.
01:04This season, I was feeling a lot of pressure.
01:07I was to prove myself.
01:09The energy makes you do your best surfing of your career.
01:12But even the best of the best have accidents.
01:14That was the first time I couldn't bring the person back.
01:23It's just so hard.
01:24It's super painful.
01:27It all hit me to focus on what's important.
01:30I get that we want to do things differently.
01:34We ask ourselves what matters to us.
01:38Where are we going to find our happiness?
01:40Maybe guys fit in time for now.
01:42Is this the last chance?
01:43I haven't touched my head!