Cosmetic chemist Ramón Pagán has been challenged to compare different types of mascara. Can he figure out which are the most expensive products? Ramón uses his high-level expertise in visual analysis, application and ingredients to put together an extremely educated guess. From volumizing to curling mascaras, how many will he get right? Watch to find out!
Category
🛠️
LifestyleTranscript
00:00Heavy means expensive.
00:02It costs more money to make the wand for product B, so that could indicate quality, though.
00:06I'm Ramon, and I'm a cosmetic chemist.
00:18Volumizing mascaras.
00:20So when it comes to a good quality volumizing mascara, the two main factors we're considering
00:24are A, obviously the formula.
00:26You want a formula that's able to build on itself to really build the impact of full-volume lashes.
00:31But, interestingly enough, the other big factor when it comes to mascaras is the brush.
00:36You want a brush that's going to be able to coat the lashes and really give the impact of that fuller volume as well.
00:41But we're not talking about the impact of the wand itself.
00:43A lot of brands actually have patents on their mascara wands,
00:46and specifically in regards to how the bristles are splayed and shaped.
00:49So we're going to start by looking at the products.
00:51We're going to start with product A.
00:53Okay, we're looking at the wand, the shape, and how the bristles are.
00:56We see the semi-hourglass, very subtle hourglass,
00:59and that's to help make sure that you're able to get all the lashes across the length of the lash line.
01:03So now let's look at product B.
01:05Brown mascara again.
01:06Similar shape, but this has a more pronounced hourglass.
01:09Specifically on this end, it's a little bit more bulbous.
01:11So now let's move on to the application, starting with product A.
01:14It goes on the lashes really nicely. The product does deposit.
01:17We're not getting a very dramatic effect. You're not going to get the high intensity of a black mascara.
01:21You can see for the most part, it is fanning the lashes out a little bit,
01:23and overall you're getting a very clean look.
01:25So now moving on to product B.
01:27You can see with the application, we're getting a bit more product applied to the lash,
01:30and we're seeing a lot more of that impact.
01:32We do notice a little bit of clumping, which that's not a bad thing.
01:35As you can see, we also sort that out very easily.
01:37But that could reflect in that product B is able to deliver more dramatic volume
01:41by being able to deposit more product.
01:43Something to notice for product B though, is that the lashes weren't initially curled,
01:48but after the three swipes of product B, there was actually a noticed lift in the lashes,
01:53and that designates an enhanced or higher quality film forming ability,
01:58and thus hold of the mascara for product B, which could indicate quality.
02:01So now for the challenge test, we are swapping out the wands.
02:04We're going to see if generic spoolies themselves can still have the same impact on volume,
02:08and therefore meaning that the formulas themselves are potentially of higher quality or not.
02:12So we can see with the left eye, this is the application with the original wand,
02:16and on the right side, that is the application with the generic spoolie.
02:20Even with the spoolie, we're getting, again, decent depositing of the mascara,
02:24a really decent, moderate volumizing effect with product A.
02:28So overall, we're seeing a decent impact.
02:31We're seeing for product B though, that potentially due to the way that the bristles are shaped and splayed,
02:36maybe they were able to hold onto more product to therefore deposit more product.
02:40So potentially products B in that regard can give more volume and thus, again, better quality.
02:46We'll see.
02:47So now let's look at the ingredients list for these, starting with product A.
02:50We see a pretty long ingredients list.
02:53Water is the first ingredient.
02:54Fun fact, mascaras are generally emulsions,
02:57meaning that they're mixtures of water and oil or lipid-based substances like waxes.
03:01So right off the top, we see different waxes.
03:03We see a lot of copolymers, and the waxes and copolymers, those are the film formers.
03:07You want the waxes to deposit on the lashes,
03:09but also things that help to give the impact of more volumizing effect as well.
03:12So we're going to look at product B now.
03:14Water, first ingredient, paraffin, that's a wax.
03:17If you go down a little bit, you're going to see VP Icosine Copolymer.
03:21That's an oil-soluble film former.
03:23That's not apparent in formula one.
03:25That in itself can be a little indication of quality just because it helps to improve longevity.
03:30A lot of the film formers we see, like general copolymers, those are more water-soluble,
03:34but that VP Icosine Copolymer, that's one of the few oil-soluble film formers.
03:38Also, I see Acetylhexapeptide 1.
03:40Peptides are not cheap, so to put them in a mascara,
03:43that's also an indication of this could be a little bit more high-quality.
03:45So based off the application, challenge test, and the ingredients list,
03:49I personally think product B is going to be the higher-quality option.
03:52Let's start with product A first, and the price is $9.99.
03:55That's actually not a bad price for a mascara.
03:57It's giving drugstore, but as you can see, this product works really, really well.
04:01And on top of that, if you want to be replacing your mascara frequently, which you should be,
04:05$9.99, you're getting a pretty good effect.
04:07And now product B, $29.
04:09To me, that's a pretty good mid-tier mascara,
04:12and that's one of those situations where if you can afford that, that's great for you.
04:16But again, we saw a really good performance out of the more affordable option,
04:19so in my opinion, drugstore is where it's at right now.
04:25Tubing mascaras, compared to regular mascaras,
04:27they feature a higher concentration of water-soluble film formers and polymers.
04:30So when you apply them, those film formers essentially form a tube around the individual lashes.
04:35The benefit of that is that it's better smudge-resistant,
04:38they have a better hold on the lash,
04:41and also they are less flaky.
04:43And plus, they're really easy to remove because you just need a little bit of water and pressure,
04:47and they slide right off.
04:48And if you've got oily eyelids, tubing mascaras could be a really good option for you
04:51because the film formers and tubing mascaras are water-soluble, not oil-soluble,
04:55which means they're going to stay on your lashes if you're like me and you've got really oily eyelids.
04:59So let's look at the products, starting first with product A.
05:02One thing about tubing mascaras is they have very specific wands.
05:05You can see with this, the bristles are short and they're very evenly spaced
05:09so that you can get basically around every individual lash to make sure that they are coated.
05:13And we can see with the tubing wands compared to the volumizing wands,
05:16there's a taper to the shape and it's straight,
05:18so in my opinion, they're easier to use,
05:20they get those inner corner lashes a lot easier,
05:22and they're just more user-friendly.
05:24Now onto product B.
05:27Same situation with the wand, taper, straight bristles, very short.
05:32It helps you comb through the lashes, get those tubes to form.
05:35It just feels heavy.
05:36This is like a metal-based tube, an applicator.
05:39This is plastic, and for me, heavy means expensive.
05:42So now looking at the application tests,
05:44for product A, we see when it goes on the lashes, we get a lot of impact.
05:49We do notice a very dramatic effect.
05:52We see volume, we see length, we see drama.
05:54And so that could be an indicator of quality.
05:57For product B, though, we're not seeing a lot of drama.
06:00We see it goes on, and realistically,
06:03this isn't making claims that I'm aware of about anything else aside from tubing.
06:07And we're noticing with the application, there's not a big change in length or volume.
06:12So now getting onto the challenge test, this is the removal test.
06:15We're going to be testing if the tubing mascara easily comes off.
06:18For this, we're going to be soaking a cotton pad in water,
06:21allowing that cotton pad to saturate the lashes for 30 seconds,
06:24and then wiping away to see if the tubes come off like they should.
06:27For product A, again, this was the Bold Drama Lash,
06:30so I was expecting bold drama tubes, and we got smudges.
06:34Realistically, it seems like after the water broke down the polymers,
06:37it just kind of dissolved it into a mush and wiped it off like that.
06:40We didn't notice tubes.
06:42So we actually had to do a second round just to make sure,
06:44and after soaking it in water, we did a finger test to see if tubes came off on the finger,
06:48and still it was very smudgy.
06:50So it doesn't seem like product A formed the tubes like it should have,
06:54and we allowed the product to set on the lashes for at least 10 minutes,
06:57so they should have definitely formed by then.
06:59Don't know what that's about.
07:00Could be an indication of quality.
07:02Product B, though, that was the one on application.
07:04It didn't seem like it was doing a lot,
07:05but after soaking for 30 seconds and rubbing the lashes,
07:08actual tubes were seen on the cotton pad, which is promising.
07:11It shows that while it wasn't a lot of drama, the tubes tube like they should have.
07:15While product B actually performed the way it was necessary to in terms of a tubing mascara,
07:19product A was just water-soluble.
07:22Overall, I'm still noticing a certain trend in quality,
07:25but we still have to review the ingredients list.
07:27So looking at the ingredients for product A,
07:29obviously water is the first ingredient.
07:31We notice all these.
07:32This is VP Icosine Copolymer.
07:34That's an oil-soluble polymer.
07:36We see the normal waxes,
07:37but again, you notice that the waxes are lower on the ingredients list than the Acrylate Copolymer.
07:41That's the water-soluble polymer that makes tubing mascaras tube, generally.
07:45Also, alcohol denat is very high up on the ingredients list.
07:48That's basically like ethanol,
07:49which some people are like,
07:50I don't want that around my eye area.
07:52That could be a solvent for one of the polymers as well.
07:54Alcohol also helps to solubilize other ingredients.
07:57It's a volatile, so it flashes off very quick.
07:59So the impact on the lash and the eye is minimal to none.
08:02Let's look at product B.
08:03Very similar inky.
08:04We see water.
08:05We see the Acrylate Copolymer.
08:07We see alcohol, first three ingredients.
08:09We see the VP Icosine Copolymer again.
08:11But if you look down a little bit, you see PVP.
08:13That's another water-soluble polymer that we normally see in tubing mascaras.
08:17Product A did not have that.
08:19Very, very similar ingredient stories for both of them though.
08:22So it's giving sisters, but not twins.
08:26So based on the application, the removal test, and the ingredients list,
08:30I personally think product B is going to be the higher quality product.
08:33Let's find out.
08:34Starting with product A, $12.99.
08:36That's very high-low tier, low-mid tier drugstore.
08:41I expected it.
08:42I'm not surprised.
08:43$26.
08:44That's actually not a bad price for a mascara.
08:46This feels heavier to me.
08:47It's giving luxury.
08:48I told you it weighed a little bit more, and that heft just means luxury to me.
08:53And while the impact on the lash wasn't crazy, it tubed like it was supposed to.
08:57This is one of the situations where the price does reflect the quality.
09:00Curling waterproof mascaras.
09:03Curling and waterproof mascara claims kind of go hand-in-hand.
09:07Waterproof mascaras are completely water-free, meaning they are anhydrous.
09:11That when they flash off the lashes, they allow the film formers to act.
09:15Generally, it will last longer if it's waterproof,
09:17with the exception of if you've got really oily eyelids like I do,
09:20because oil loves oil, the sebum in the eyelids will tend to dissolve
09:24the oil-soluble film formers.
09:26So in that situation, it probably won't last very long.
09:29But if you have very watery eyes or you're very sweaty,
09:31this is the formula for you.
09:32So in a quality curling waterproof mascara, we're looking at A, the wand,
09:37and B, I'm looking at the formulation overall that allow the water resistance,
09:42but also the hold of the lashes.
09:44So let's move on to the visual analysis, starting with product A.
09:47You can see here, there's a curve to the wand.
09:50And basically, as you brush this through your lashes,
09:52that curled shape basically is mirroring the curve of your eyeball and eyelashes.
09:57So it helps to essentially, as you're moving it through the lash,
10:00hold the lashes in that curl.
10:02Now to product B.
10:04So kind of similar concept, more of a subtle curve in this wand.
10:08Notice how the wand for this mimics more of the wand of a tubing mascara.
10:12So you have short, straight, evenly aligned bristles to kind of get
10:16in between all the lashes, so it's depositing the product more evenly
10:19and maybe giving a little bit more volume.
10:21This potentially also helps prevent clumping.
10:24Also worth noting is obviously for product A,
10:27this wand is more of like a traditional brush.
10:29It is a custom shape, but it's more like a brush brush.
10:31B is more of that plasticky wand.
10:33In my opinion, it costs more money to make the wand for product B.
10:37So that could indicate quality though.
10:39So now getting into the application, starting with product A.
10:41We see when the product's applied onto Lauren's lashes,
10:44we get a really good impact of curl,
10:47comparing the lash with the application versus the clean lash.
10:50We see a nice lift and lengthening of the lashes.
10:53Especially because the lashes were so light in color,
10:56we do see an impact of the black.
10:58We see the product easily and cleanly depositing on the lashes.
11:01And therefore, we're seeing the drama.
11:03We're seeing the overall effect of the mascara.
11:05So impact of product A is substantial.
11:08Now moving on to product B's application.
11:10The lashes already had a natural curl to them,
11:12so we're not seeing a more substantial lift and curl of the lashes
11:15necessarily due to the mascara.
11:17But again, we are noticing the product depositing very well,
11:20a very substantial effect in terms of drama,
11:22in terms of intensity of the black pigment.
11:24And overall, mascara B is delivering as well
11:26in terms of the application.
11:28So now onto the challenge test.
11:29We're doing the waterproof test.
11:31Because both mascaras do claim waterproof wear,
11:34we're going to be exposing them to the elements.
11:36Since the mascara's been on the models for over five minutes,
11:38we assume it's going to have set by now.
11:40We're going to be spraying them in the face with water
11:43to see if the mascara is actually waterproof.
11:45We're wanting the mascara to stay in place,
11:47not smudge, not run, and for that curl to stay curled.
11:50So with the waterproof test for product A,
11:52we noticed actually a really great performance
11:55with both the pat and the swipe.
11:57No product transferred to the tissue,
11:59which to me indicates a really good waterproof wear of the mascara.
12:02Also, the lashes didn't seem to droop down or lose their curl either.
12:05And overall, we did notice that the curl still held
12:07even after heavily saturating the lashes.
12:09Now onto product B, same test,
12:11and overall, very similar results with both the pat and the swipe.
12:14Very, very, very minimal product transfer onto the tissue.
12:18I will say for the pat, it's hardly noticeable
12:21how much product transfers.
12:22With the swipe, it was a very aggressive swipe.
12:24But even with that, very minimal product transferred,
12:27even with all of that friction.
12:28And we can still see that for product B as well,
12:30it still held the curl really well,
12:32even after being heavily saturated.
12:33It is worth noting once again, though,
12:35that the lashes already had a very, very pronounced natural curl.
12:38Even just off that, I actually could not tell you
12:40which is the higher-end option.
12:41So now let's look into the ingredients,
12:42starting with product A.
12:44As I mentioned earlier, since these are both water-resistant,
12:46water's not the first ingredient.
12:48I'm still surprised to see it high up on the ingredients list.
12:50We see the Acrylates Copolymer,
12:52the VP Icosine Copolymer, that's the oil-soluble polymer,
12:55which is going to contribute to the long wear, heavy-duty wear.
12:58Now onto product B.
12:59We see a considerably shorter ingredients list.
13:01We just see the one colorant, the Iron Oxide,
13:04very high up, that's a black Iron Oxide.
13:06So this one only comes in black.
13:07Isodecane is the first ingredient.
13:09Similarly, water's the third ingredient.
13:11Again, we see the VP Icosine Copolymer.
13:14We see waxes.
13:15So this one's on a crazy, crazy ingredients list.
13:17So when we see the copolymers and all those things,
13:19those are ingredients that are borrowed from hairspray.
13:21And what we know about hairspray is
13:23it's going to hold the hair where you want it to be held.
13:25And that's just due to the polymeric nature of these ingredients.
13:27And so when we see those in mascaras,
13:29very similar concept.
13:30It's like hair gel.
13:31It's holding the lashes where you need them, where you want them.
13:33In this regard, we're wanting that curl held.
13:35That's where these ingredients come into play.
13:37So while this is a shorter ingredients list,
13:39maybe this one is a little bit more hair care,
13:42maybe a little bit more lash care-wise.
13:44But again, nothing is really denoting a quality difference to me
13:47at this moment in time.
13:48I'm actually very stumped.
13:50But my gut saying it's product A is a higher quality product.
13:53Let's find out.
13:54So product A, $33.
13:56Okay, that's mid-tier.
13:58Mid, very mid, mid-tier.
14:00But realistically, based off the performance,
14:02which is why I chose that one,
14:03the price matches the performance.
14:04Let's look at product B next.
14:06Okay, $13.
14:07I was really worried it was going to be like $60 or something.
14:10Realistically, this performed incredibly for a $13 mascara.
14:14I am genuinely very shocked.
14:16If these would have been in a similar price tier,
14:18I would not be surprised.
14:19But realistically, I went with product A being the higher quality one
14:22just because the performance test was just this much better.
14:25But product B still, she did the thing.
14:28She was water-resistant, heavy duty, held the curl,
14:31did everything that it was supposed to do.
14:32So based off the three tests we saw today
14:34in terms of the relationship between price and quality,
14:36it's very much a mixed bag.
14:38Drugstore has some really great options when it comes to mascaras.
14:41From a cosmetic chemist perspective,
14:43the brands basically trickle down a lot of the same technology
14:45from the luxe brands down to the more affordable options.
14:48For mascaras, it really comes down to trying it out yourself
14:50and seeing what works for you.