Category
🦄
CreativityTranscript
00:00 Welcome to the line with graduation and layering.
00:03 This hair shape concludes the line series
00:05 and shows how to successfully combine lines, graduation,
00:09 and layering.
00:10 Prior to shampooing, make a thorough assessment
00:13 of the hairlines.
00:14 [MUSIC PLAYING]
00:18 Ensuring that the client is sitting straight with arms
00:20 and legs uncrossed, find the natural parting
00:23 by combing the hair away from the face as shown
00:26 and pushing gently forward.
00:28 This will allow the hair to fall into its natural position.
00:32 Part the hair from the crown to the nape at center back.
00:35 And then starting from the nape, take a section horizontally
00:38 from the center to behind the ear.
00:41 Keep the head tilted forward through this part
00:43 of the process to minimize the undulations of the neck.
00:47 Comb the hair in the direction in which it grows
00:49 and cut a line against the skin that mirrors
00:52 the angle of the section.
00:53 [MUSIC PLAYING]
00:56 Now take a section parallel to the first
00:58 and comb the hair down onto the skin.
01:01 Whilst cutting, the hair can be secured
01:03 with either the back of the hand, which
01:04 will give maximum tension, or one or two fingers, which
01:08 will give less tension.
01:10 With either method, use fine sections
01:12 and always follow the guideline.
01:15 Now work up to the crown using the small teeth of the comb
01:18 to keep the tension consistent.
01:20 As the sections progress, gradually
01:22 bring the client's head into a slightly less tilted forward
01:25 position.
01:26 [MUSIC PLAYING]
01:29 Notice that around the crown, the sections
01:36 have pivoted so that none of the hair in the sides
01:39 has yet been incorporated.
01:40 [MUSIC PLAYING]
01:44 Now to join the back with the sides.
01:48 With the head in a natural position,
01:50 using the hair behind the ear as a guide,
01:53 take a section that flows from the back to the front.
01:56 Ensure that the first section contains sufficient hair
01:59 to give definition to the line.
02:01 Always check behind the ears for loose ends.
02:05 Here, the hair is being held gently against the skin
02:07 with consistent tension.
02:09 To enable more control, tilt the head away
02:12 whilst the line is being cut.
02:14 Now continue with parallel sections
02:16 up to the original parting.
02:18 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:21 Now use the same sectioning and cutting procedure
02:24 as for the first side.
02:25 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:29 Check the shape thoroughly for symmetry and balance.
02:35 Now continue through to the original parting.
02:37 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:41 Now continue with parallel sections
02:43 up to the original parting.
02:44 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:47 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:51 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:54 [MUSIC PLAYING]
02:58 [MUSIC PLAYING]
03:02 Now move on to the graduation element of the shape.
03:05 First, divide the hair at the center back.
03:08 Notice that the original parting has been moved to the center.
03:12 Next, take a diagonal section from the center parting.
03:15 Then using the outline as a guide,
03:18 over-direct the hair back and cut a line that mirrors
03:21 the angle of the section.
03:22 [MUSIC PLAYING]
03:27 Now take sections that pivot around the back of the head,
03:30 gradually becoming more horizontal
03:32 as the shape progresses.
03:34 Keep over-directing the hair back
03:36 and build up a graduated shape.
03:38 [MUSIC PLAYING]
03:42 [MUSIC PLAYING]
03:47 Periodically check how the shape is progressing.
03:50 Now take a section that incorporates
03:52 the hair in front of the ear.
03:54 Over-direct the hair back and continue
03:56 the square graduated line.
03:58 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:05 Now begin to round the graduation off
04:07 to prepare to layer the hair up to the center parting.
04:10 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:15 Take a parallel section.
04:16 And before progressing onto the layering,
04:18 take a series of diagonal sections.
04:21 Lift these straight out, over-direct slightly back,
04:25 and remove any excess roundness that may have been built up.
04:28 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:31 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:35 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:38 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:43 Once the graduation length is correct,
04:45 move on to the top area.
04:47 Take diagonal sections, over-direct back and up,
04:51 and cut a line using the underneath lengths as a guide.
04:54 [MUSIC PLAYING]
05:00 Replace the original side parting
05:02 and conclude the layering through the first side.
05:05 Now use the same sectioning and cutting procedure for the second side.
05:12 Now work on the fringe. Take a section around the hairline with the underneath finger resting on the side.
05:19 Now work on the fringe. Take a section around the hairline with the underneath finger resting on the skin.
05:26 Cut a line to the desired length. The cutting line drops down into the outline length through the side.
05:33 Now work on the fringe. Take a section around the hairline with the underneath finger resting on the side.
05:40 Cut a line to the desired length. The cutting line drops down into the outline length through the side.
05:47 The angle of the section is mirrored by the cutting line.
05:53 Take parallel sections and comb onto the first section which is the guide for this area.
06:00 Continue with this method until the sections no longer reach the cutting line.
06:12 Now repeat this procedure for the second side.
06:32 Cross check the entire shape then square off the layering through the top.
06:56 Prepare the hair for drying by applying a suitable finishing product. Dry the hair using a diffuser to accentuate the natural texture.
07:08 Keep the dryer moving around the head to dry the hair evenly.
07:13 Encourage the natural movement with the fingers and ensure that the roots are dried thoroughly so that the shape doesn't collapse.
07:24 And here is the finished result. A combination of the three techniques that produces a wearable shape that can be exaggerated to suit the wearer's mood.